Naples Naples Naples…. I wanted to love you and that delicious melt-in-your-mouth pizza but I just couldn’t. After so much beauty in Florence, you just felt like the ugly cousin of the family I’m afraid. The up side of this is I didn’t explore as much as I should have so saved a little coin just relaxing and doing a little people watching along the shoreline.
| Day | Transport | Hostel | Attractions | Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner | Misc | Total EU | Total $AU |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 10 | 15 | – | – | 8 | 4.5 | 8 | 45.5 | 66.91 |
| 2 | 4.7 | 15 | 22 | – | 9 | – | 36.7 | 87.4 | 128.52 |
| 3 | – | 15 | 9.3 | – | 2.5 | 4.5 | 17.3 | 48.3 | 71.02 |
| 4 | – | 15 | 7 | – | 4 | 4.5 | 8 | 38.5 | 56.61 |
Transport
This was the end of the line for my Eurail pass as I paid the last reservation fee to use it. My whole trip I resented paying reservation fees for a pass that cost a considerable about of money to begin with so expect a post about that soon now that I’ve covered off on all of its costs.
My second day in Naples saw me head out to Herculaneum and Pompeii on a day ticket (4.70 Euro). Getting the ticket from the small box of a building near my hostel was more difficult that finding the train but hey, by now I was used to the “I don’t speak your language you don’t speak mine” dance.
Hostel
I wish my hostel in Naples wasn’t in Naples, it was so chill and the owners so much fun I really want to return. How’s this for just 15 Euro a night. Free breakfast, free wifi, free pasta Tuesday and thursday nights oh and lets not forget some of the coolest hostel owners I’d met so far. An older Italian couple where the husband is a joker and takes any chance to pay out on his wife (all in humor) and a wife who gives just as good as she gets. If I wasn’t laughing, I was relaxing in the common room watching some TV and talking to other backpackers.
Attractions
My main reason for staying in Naples apart from the pizza of course, was Pompeii. On my first full day in Naples I stopping off at Herculaneum (entry fee 9 Euro) on my way to Pompeii which is 11 Euro. Herculaneum is great but Pompeii is just crazy huge. Just remember to take a hat, sunscreen and lots of water with you because you can’t escape the sun and the food vendors outside the site charge like a wounded bull. You have to make a day of it and unlike me try and get some sort of map or tour guide to point out the interesting spots. I just wandered around like a lost little boy for hours amusing myself
In Naples I also caught an underground tour of the old aqueduct’s which was rather interesting if a little expensive at 9.30 Euro before rounding out my sightseeing by handing over 7 Euro to enter Castle Nuovo. My tip skip the castle its got some old artwork and that’s pretty much it. You would only go if you wanted catch a view out over the gulf of Naples from the 3rd story balcony.
Food
With free breakfast and free pasta for one of me nights in Naples I pretty much just feasted on pizza every other chance I got. You can’t really blame me either when you are paying 3 Euro plus 1.5 Euro for a beer and are getting served up something the size of a monster pizza back home, my tip order a basic like a margherita because good pizza doesn’t need extra toppings. Sadly the gelato in Naples did not live up to my expectations from Florence (it was hard to find too) so I had to go without.
Miscellaneous
I wouldn’t be a backpacker if I didn’t party just a little so that’s just what I did. My second night saw me hit a local establishment as we followed a staff member from the hostel out on the town. Beer was consumed, shots inhaled and I woke the next day with no money in my wallet, job done.
The third night was less than fun. Our once praised hostel staff member drove us out to some makeshift club by the coast and well it was what most guys would call a sausage fest. It was later revealed said hostel staffer was just trying to impress one of the hostel girls so we were glad the night ended early after we forced him to drive us all home.
Total Cost for Naples
As I’ve written before Naples failed to capture me. I know it wasn’t because my trip was about to end as my last few days on the Amalfi Coast were nothing short of crazy. I just wish I had that feeling of wanting to return like I do for so many other cities throughout Europe.
A total cost of 219.7 Euro or $323.06 AUD (at an exchange rate of 0.68 Euro = 1 AUD) over four days kept my average spend to $80.76 AUD a day. Not bad in my opinion and had I skipped out on the boozing it would have been well under that figure. But really… like I’d miss out on the chance for a beer.
Had I travelled to Naples now (November 2014) the total cost for the four days would have been $313.03 AUD. The good times are dieing for the aussie dollar so if you are looking to travel abroad then start saving now and hope to ride the next good wave of our currency.
I have to agree with you about Naples.. I wanted to love it, but after seeing all the beauty of surrounding areas.. it’s just hard. Perhaps I’ll head back one day, for a better look, but until then, you are absolutely right! Although.. the pizza is definitely a plus 😀
Great budget round up.
Also, I’m not sure how long your site has been this way (is it a new design?).. but I love the design!
That’s it Seattle I wanted to like Naples as I’d adored Florence, but I just couldn’t. The pizza you can’t argue with that’s for sure and as I know I’ll be going back to the Amalfi Coast again I might stop a night just to have some 🙂
Oh and the site changed on Monday, glad you like it.
Yeah, I definitely hope to return to the Amalfi coast too.. or just the South of Italy in general 😀
Your review ‘ain’t so glowing for Naples, but is it the best jumping off point for the Pompeii experience? I mean, I’m certain I’d go just for the pizza :-p
No Chris I just didn’t get into Naples. Everyone has to visit once, if only for the pizza but after that…
If I was going back now and wanted to see Pompeii again I’d base myself down in Sorrento so I could easily get along the Amalfi Coast again. It’s a shorter trip to Pompeii from there and the area is so beautiful.
If you have camping kit, there used to be a lovely campground right outside Pompeii, situated in an orange grove. Cheap and only a couple minutes walk to the ruins.
I stayed in Piano di Sorrento as my base for the region, and I think I did good. Only time in Naples was one evening to the opera (I did have some of that awesome pizza, worth it just for that). Spent my time visiting Pompeii, Paestum, Salerno, and just hanging out in Sorrento and enjoying the Amafli Coast.
“good pizza doesn’t need extra toppings” – Amen!!!
You’ve forgotten the joys of aperitivi in Italy! Did you not find any bars serving a selection of food (a free accompaniment with your drink) around 5-8pm?
Oooh I scoffed all sorts from crisps and nuts to full blown portions of home-made lasagne, pizza and salads. Sometimes it is laid out on the bar, or at a buffet (help yourself) table. Sometimes they bring it directly to your seat.
If you are on a really tight budget, these morsels can serve as a light dinner. I have been to Venice, Florence, Palermo and Catania where they offered this aperitivi.
Really want this to catch on in London!
I love these updates it makes traveling Europe seem more affordable, even if the AUS is doing a bit better than the USD right now. BTW love the new layout
Thanks mate, Europe isn’t as bad as people make out in my opinion. You just need to work out where you want to go and don’t treat it like the get wasted ever night lifestyle of backpacking asia.
I wish I was travelling to Europe now with the aussie dollar so strong. Would have saved me quite a few dollars.
Love this series. Great idea, Chris. I should do the same with the places I visit!
I also stopped in at Napoli on my tour of Italy, but didn´t like it and opted for the Amalfi Coast instead. The best pizza I ever had in my life was somewhere between Sorrento and Amalfi, and not in Naples. But I guess its the ¨region¨, and not the city itself, thats where pizza was started.
After a few weeks in Italy, I am looking forward to returning and hitting Sicily next time, after getting the low-down from a very attractive Sicilian girl in Northern Italy.
@Ian I know lots of people who haven’t liked Naples – but it’s great to be able to disappear to the Amalfi Coast if you discover Naples isn’t your cup of tea (just like you!) so I don’t think people should be put off by visiting.
Any chance you could give out the name of hostel you stayed in.
Sounds like a great experience.
Hi Shaun, the hostel where I stayed was called the Welcome Inn. Not sure if its still around/owned by the same people but I enjoyed the place.
Just wondering, what hostel did you stay in? I’m looking to go to Naples early February 2016 and your review of the place sounds so good that I want to stay there myself!
Hi Savannah, I stayed at the Welcome Inn while in Naples. It’s been a long time since I was there last but imagine if its still owned by the same people you’ll enjoy yourself. It’s far from the fanciest place but it had a great feel to it.